Action Directe (climb)

Action Directe is a famous and very challenging climb located at the Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. It is a short, 15-meter (49 ft) climb that hangs steeply outward, making it very difficult. When German climber Wolfgang Güllich first climbed it in 1991, it became the very first climb in the world to be graded 9a (5.14d), which is one of the hardest levels of climbing.

This climb is very important in the history of rock climbing. Many climbers try to reach its difficult grade, and it is often used as a test to see if someone can handle the hardest climbs. The special training and equipment Wolfgang Güllich used to prepare for Action Directe changed climbing a lot, helping climbers everywhere improve and reach new goals.

History

The climb called Action Directe was created by Wolfgang Güllich, a German climber. A friend, Milan Sykora, showed Güllich the route on a large limestone rock at the Waldkopf crag. Sykora had started working on the climb but thought the lower part was too difficult, so he let Güllich try it.

Güllich finished climbing it on September 14, 1991, after 11 days of practice. He used a special way to start the climb, which made it very challenging. At the time, Güllich was 30 years old and had just gotten married five days before finishing the climb. This climb was very important because it was the first one in the world to be rated as very hard, which is called 9a (5.14d). Many climbers have tried it since then, but it remains one of the toughest climbs of its level.

In 2020, a French climber named Mélissa Le Nevé was the first woman to climb it. Even after almost 30 years, only 27 people had successfully climbed Action Directe. There were two other claimed climbs, but they are not fully accepted by everyone.

Route

Action Directe is a famous climb known for its tough moves. Climbers use small holds in the rock, starting with a big jump into a tiny pocket. The climb is only 15 metres (49 ft) long and can be done in just over a minute.

After climbing it in 2016, German climber David Firnenburg said the climb starts with a big jump, followed by hard holds and tricky foot steps, ending with a difficult move that even he missed several times before getting it right.

Legacy

Action Directe is famous and legendary in climbing. Even in 2020, it was called a key climb that attracts top climbers around the world. It is often called the best test for the very hard level of 9a (5.14d).

The climber Wolfgang Güllich used special training methods and introduced the campus board to help climbers build strength. Some people wonder if another climb, Hubble, might have been the first 9a route, but opinions differ because grading a climb can be tricky. This debate is similar to another one about which climb was the first 9a+ (5.15a).

Ascents

Action Directe has been climbed by many skilled climbers since it was first tackled.

The first person to climb it was Wolfgang Güllich on September 14, 1991. Since then, many others have successfully completed the route, including Alexander Adler, Iker Pou, Dave Graham, and more.

In May 2020, Mélissa Le Nevé became the first woman to climb it.

Filmography

Here are some films about climbers trying the Action Directe climb:

• Dai Koyamada’s climb in 2005: Action Directe
• Jan Hojer’s climb in 2014: Rock Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Action Directe 9a
• Stephan Vogt’s climb in 2017: The Fire Within
• Mélissa Le Nevé’s climb in 2020: ReelRock 15