Free climbing
Adapted from Wikipedia · Discoverer experience
Free climbing is a way of doing rock climbing where climbers can use special gear to stay safe, but they don't use any machines or tools to help them move up the rock. This means they climb using only their own skills and strength, without extra help from things like climbing ladders or hooks. This style of climbing changed the world of rock climbing a lot, especially when people first managed to climb a route without any extra help — this is called a first free ascent.
There are different kinds of free climbing. Some people do it while being held by a rope from above, called lead climbing, and this can be done in two ways: one where they put in small pieces of gear as they climb, and another where the safety gear is already fixed in place. Others might climb short, tough sections without any rope at all, which is called bouldering. Sometimes, people also try free climbing completely alone, without any safety gear, but this is very dangerous and not the same as regular free climbing.
History
The free climbing movement was a big change in the history of rock climbing. In 1911, an Austrian climber named Paul Preuss started talking about moving to "free climbing." He wrote articles saying that climbers should only use special tools to stay safe, not to help them climb. In 1913, another German climber named Rudolf Fehrmann made rules to protect the rocks while climbing. These rules said climbers could only use natural holds, and they are still used today.
In 1975, a German climber named Kurt Albert marked a climb with a red dot to show he had free climbed it after trying many times. This idea of a "first free ascent" became important in climbing history.
First free ascent
The first time someone climbs a route without help is called the first free ascent, or FFA. People write about these climbs in journals and guide books. They also note if the climb was done on the first try without help, on the first try with some information, or after several tries.
French free climbing
There is a style called French free climbing. This means climbers use protection gear attached to the rock to help them climb, but it is not the same as true free climbing. Climbers using this style cannot say they have made a "first free ascent" of a new route.
Types
Free climbing means not using any tools to help climb up. It can be done in several ways:
- Traditional climbing, where the climber puts up safety gear as they climb, but this gear doesn’t help them move up.
- Sport climbing, where fixed bolts are used for safety, but not to help move up.
- Bouldering, where no tools are used at all, even for safety.
- Free solo climbing, where no tools are used, just like bouldering.
Misunderstandings
Free climbing is often misunderstood. Some people think it means climbing alone without any help, but in free climbing, a climber still has a partner called a belayer for safety. Others believe free climbing means no safety gear at all, but climbers do use safety equipment to protect themselves, though they don’t use it to help them move up the rock.
Free climbing is also different from clean climbing. Clean climbing has its own rules about where climbers can place their gear, and it doesn’t include using certain types of routes for first ascents.
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