K2

K2, also known as Mount Godwin-Austen, is the second-highest mountain on Earth, standing at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level. It is located in the Karakoram range, partly in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir and partly in the China-administered Trans-Karakoram Tract in Xinjiang.

K2 is often called the "Savage Mountain" because of its dangerous climbing conditions. It has been nicknamed "The King of Mountains" and "The Mountaineers' Mountain." Although Mount Everest is higher, K2 is considered a more difficult and dangerous climb due to its location and harsh weather.

The summit of K2 was first reached in 1954 by Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. Most ascents happen in July and August. In January 2021, K2 became the last of the world’s eight-thousand-metre peaks to be climbed in winter by a team of Nepalese climbers.

The mountain’s eastern face has never been climbed because of its unstable ice and snow formations. As of August 2023, about 800 people have reached the summit, with 96 deaths during attempted climbs. Mount Everest Karakoram range Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan Kashmir China Trans-Karakoram Tract Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County Xinjiang George Bell 1953 American expedition summit 96 deaths during attempted climbs Reinhold Messner Lino Lacedelli Achille Compagnoni 1954 Italian expedition Ardito Desio eight-thousander Nepalese Nirmal Purja

Name

The name K2 comes from a survey done by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of British India. A surveyor named Thomas Montgomerie labeled the two biggest peaks K1 and K2, with the K standing for Karakoram.

K2 did not have a well-known local name, possibly because it is far away and hard to see. Some people suggested names like Chogori or Qogir, but these were not widely used. Another name, Mount Godwin-Austen, was suggested to honor an explorer, but it was not officially accepted.

Because of this, K2 became the common name, and it is now also used in the Balti language. Some say this simple name fits the mountain well because it is so remote and challenging.

Geographical setting

K2 is part of the northwestern Karakoram Range. It sits in the Baltistan region of Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China. The Tarim sedimentary basin lies to the north, and the Lesser Himalayas to the south. Meltwater from glaciers around K2 helps provide fresh water for farming in nearby valleys.

K2 is ranked 22nd by topographic prominence, which shows how much a mountain stands out on its own. It is part of the same uplifted area as Mount Everest, and there is a path connecting K2 to Everest that never drops below 4,594 metres (15,072 ft). While many shorter mountains are more independent, K2 is the most prominent peak in the Karakoram range.

K2 is very steep, rising over 3,000 metres (10,000 ft) above the valleys around its base. The north side is especially steep, rising more than 3,200 metres (10,500 ft) above a glacier in just a short horizontal distance. In most directions, K2 drops sharply within a few kilometres.

Height

K2 stands at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level, according to maps and books. In 2014, a team from Pakistan and Italy worked together to check the mountain’s height again. They used special tools to get a very exact number, and they found it to be 8,609.02 metres (28,244.8 ft).

Geology

The mountains of K2 and Broad Peak, along with nearby areas, are made of special changed rocks called the K2 Gneiss. These rocks are part of a larger group known as the Karakoram Metamorphic Complex. The K2 Gneiss is a mix of different types of changed rocks, including orthogneiss and paragneiss.

Scientists have studied these rocks and found that they are very old, forming about 115 to 120 million years ago. They started as granite formed deep under the Earth’s surface and were later changed by heat and pressure. Over time, these rocks were pushed up to where we see them today as part of the tall mountain range including K2 and Broad Peak.

Climbing history

Early attempts

The mountain was first studied by a British team in 1856. A team member named Thomas Montgomerie called the mountain "K2" because it was the second peak in the Karakoram range. Other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4, and K5 but were later renamed Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, and Gasherbrum I.

In 1892, a British expedition led by Martin Conway reached a place called Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier.

The first serious attempt to climb K2 happened in 1902. After many challenges, the team reached about 6,525 metres but had to turn back due to bad weather and health issues.

The next attempt in 1909 reached around 6,250 metres but was also stopped by difficult conditions.

Success and repeats

In 1954, an Italian team finally reached the top of K2. This was a big achievement but came with some controversy.

Over the years, many climbers from different countries have successfully reached the summit of K2, facing many challenges along the way.

Recent records, attempts and notable events

In recent years, many climbers have reached the top of K2, with some setting new records for age and speed. These achievements show the continuing challenge and appeal of climbing this famous mountain.

Winter expeditions

Several attempts to climb K2 in the winter have been made over the years. These expeditions face even harder conditions than usual climbs.

In January 2021, a group of climbers made the first successful winter ascent of K2. Unfortunately, some climbers did not survive the descent during the 2020–21 winter season.

Climbing routes and difficulties

K2 has many climbing paths, and they all share big challenges. The air up there has much less oxygen, making it hard to breathe. The mountain also often has very bad storms that can last for days. All the routes are steep and tough, especially if a storm hits.

The most common path is called the Abruzzi Spur, used by most climbers. It starts on the Pakistani side and goes up through snow, ice, and rock. There is a very narrow and dangerous part called the Bottleneck, which has been risky for climbers.

Other paths on K2 are less used because they are even harder or harder to reach. Some of these paths have never been climbed because they are too unsafe. Climbers often face very difficult weather and dangerous conditions no matter which route they take.

Films

Here are some films about K2:

• K2 (1991) is an adventure drama directed by Franc Roddam. It is based on the story of Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt, the first Americans to reach the top of K2.
• Vertical Limit (2000) is an American survival thriller directed by Martin Campbell.
• K2: Siren of the Himalayas (2012) is a documentary by Dave Ohlson. It follows climbers during their 2009 attempt to reach K2, marking the 100-year anniversary of the Duke of Abruzzi's famous 1909 expedition.
• The Summit (2012) is a documentary about the 2008 K2 disaster, directed by Nick Ryan.
• K2: The Impossible Descent (2020) is a documentary about Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel’s 2018 climb and ski descent of K2, directed by Sławomir Batyra and Steven Robillard.

Passes

Windy Gap is a high point in the mountains, reaching 6,111 meters (20,049 feet) above sea level. It lies east of K2, north of Broad Peak, and south of Skyang Kangri.