Leather

Leather is a strong, flexible, and durable material made from the skins and hides of animals. It is created through a process called tanning, which uses chemicals to prevent the skins from decaying. The most common animals used for leather are cattle, sheep, goats, horses, buffalo, pigs, hogs, ostriches, and even aquatic animals like seals and alligators.

People have been using leather for over 7,000 years to make many useful items. Leather is used to make clothing, shoes, handbags, furniture, tools, and sports equipment. Because leather is very strong and lasts a long time, these items can remain in good condition for many years. Today, the largest producers of leather are China and India.

However, some people worry about how leather is made. They say that places where leather is produced, called tanneries, sometimes use practices that can be harmful to the health of people living nearby and to the environment.

Production processes

Making leather involves three main steps: preparing the hide, tanning it, and finishing it. First, hides are cleaned and treated so they are ready for tanning. Next, tanning makes the hides strong and flexible so they don’t decay. Different methods can be used for tanning, such as using plant materials or special chemicals. Finally, some leathers get extra treatments to improve their look and feel.

Main article: Tanning (leather)

There are several ways to tan leather. One old method uses plants to create a soft, light brown leather. Another common way uses chromium, which makes the leather very flexible but can harm the environment. Some leathers use other chemicals to stay safe for babies and cars. Brain tanned leather uses special oils to make it very soft. Each method gives leather different qualities and uses.

Grades

Leather comes in different grades, which describe its quality and texture. Top-grain leather is made from the outer layer of an animal hide and is known for its strength and durability. Full-grain leather is the highest quality and develops a nice look over time. It is often used for furniture and shoes.

Split leather comes from the lower layers of the hide. Bicast leather looks like top-grain leather but is made from split leather coated with a special material. Patent leather has a very shiny finish, and suede is soft and napped, often made from younger animals. Bonded leather is made from small pieces of leather glued together with special materials.

The term "genuine leather" is used in different ways and may not always mean a specific type of leather.

Animals used

Today, most leather comes from cattle hides, making up about 65% of all leather made. Other animals used include sheep (about 13%), goats (about 11%), and pigs (about 10%). Getting exact numbers from around the world can be hard, especially in places where the skin might also be eaten.

Horse hides are used to make very strong leathers. Shell cordovan is a special kind of horse leather made from a layer under the outer skin. It is known for its shiny finish and ability to stay smooth.

Lamb and deerskin are used for soft, fancy leather in clothes. Deerskin is often used in work gloves and indoor shoes.

Skins from animals like alligator, crocodile, and snake are used because of their unique patterns. The Argentine black and white tegu is one of the most used reptiles for leather, but it is not in danger and trade is allowed in most South American countries.

Kangaroo leather is used for things that need to be strong and bendable, like bullwhips. Some motorcyclists like kangaroo leather for motorcycle leathers because it is light and resists wear. It is also used for falconry jesses, soccer shoes (like Adidas Copa Mundial), and boxing speed bags.

Although ostriches were once raised for their feathers, they are now also used for meat and leather. Ostrich leather has a special bumpy look from where the feathers grew and can be used for many things like furniture, shoes, car parts, accessories, and clothes.

In Thailand, stingray leather is used to make wallets and belts. This leather is tough and durable, often dyed black with tiny bumps that are then highlighted in white. Stingray leather is also used for grips on swords and in motorcycle racing gear.

For the same thickness, fish leather is usually much stronger because of its crossed fibers.

Environmental impact

Leather making can affect the environment in several ways. Raising animals like cows for leather creates a carbon footprint. The process of treating the animal skins also uses chemicals that can pollute the air and water.

Making leather needs a lot of water and creates waste water that can harm rivers and lakes. Leather takes a long time to break down in nature. Some places don't have strong rules to stop pollution from leather factories, which can hurt both the environment and people living nearby.

Role of enzymes

Main article: Bating (leather)

Different helpers, called enzymes, play a big part in making leather. Some of these helpers, like proteases, lipases, and amylases, help soften and clean the animal skin during the process. Proteases are the most common helpers used. They work by breaking down certain parts of the skin but leave important parts like collagen and keratin untouched. This step is known as bating.

Lipases help remove natural fats from the skin. Amylases are used less often; they help make the skin softer and stronger.

Preservation and conditioning

Leather can break down over time because its natural fibers weaken. A problem called red rot can make leather turn to powder and feel different, especially if it gets too hot or humid. Even though this damage can’t be undone, special treatments can help keep the leather from falling apart.

Leather can also dry out if it’s in very dry air, changing its structure forever. It can get damaged by sunlight, air pollution, or certain oils. To care for leather, it’s best to use a slightly damp cloth and avoid getting it very wet. There are products like conditioners, saddle soap for cleaning, and shoe polish that help keep leather in good shape.

In modern culture

Leather is tough and can resist scratches and wind, making it useful for hard jobs. People who work with cows, called cowboys, often wear leather pants called chaps. When people started flying airplanes, they wore leather jackets and helmets for protection. When motorcycles were invented, riders began wearing heavy leather jackets to protect themselves from injuries and wind. Some also wear chaps or leather pants to protect their legs.

Because leather is flexible, it can be shaped into balls and protective gear. Many sports use leather equipment, like baseball gloves and the balls used in cricket and football games.

Some music groups, especially rock, heavy metal, and punk bands from the 1970s and 80s, are famous for wearing leather clothes. Some car and truck seats can also be made from leather.

Religious sensitivities

In some countries, people follow religions that have rules about what materials they can use. Shops often tell customers where their leather comes from to help people follow these rules. For example, a Muslim might want to avoid products made from pigskin, and a Hindu might avoid cattleskin. Because of these rules, there is more demand for leathers that many people can use, like ostrich or deer leather.

Some religions, like Judaism, have special days when wearing leather shoes is not allowed. Jainism teaches that using leather is wrong because it comes from animals that were killed to get the skin.

Alternatives

People have created different materials that act like leather but are not made from animal skins. These materials are usually made from a plastic called polyurethane or vinyl that is put on top of cloth. Some of these fake leathers are called "pleather" or have brand names like Naugahyde.

Another kind of leather is made in laboratories. Scientists grow leather using tiny cells, or they use materials from mushrooms and waste from the meat industry. Leather made from mushrooms breaks down naturally when it is no longer needed.