Mount Everest in 2017

The Mount Everest climbing season of 2017 was a busy time for adventurers. Climbers from all over the world gathered at the world's highest mountain to try to reach the top. The first climbers reached the summit on May 11 from the north side, and others followed on May 15 from the south side. By early June, about 445 people had made it to the top from the Nepali side, with around 160 to 200 from the north side, making a total of about 600 to 660 climbers who reached the summit.

This year had fewer successful climbs compared to other years, with about half of the climbers making it to the top from the south side. Sadly, during this season, several climbers faced dangerous situations. Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck died in a fall during a practice climb on Nuptse as he prepared for his attempt to climb Everest and nearby Lhotse. By May 22, five climbers had died during their attempts, and one trekker also passed away earlier in the year while traveling to base camp.

Some climbers managed to reach the top twice during the season, showing great skill and determination. Notable among them were Kilian Jornet and Anshu Jamsenpa, who each climbed to the summit two times. This season remains an important part of Everest's history, showing both the challenges and achievements of those who attempt this amazing climb.

Mountaineering season

Winter

A Spanish climber named Alex Txikon and a Pakistani climber named Muhammad Ali Sadpara tried to reach the top of Mount Everest in winter without using extra oxygen. Alex reached a high point on January 31, 2018, but they had to turn back because the weather was too bad.

Spring

The 2017 climbing season was planned to be one of the biggest ever, with 365 climbers from 39 teams on the Nepal side alone. By May 3, there were 371 permits for climbers, meaning around 800 people, including their guides, could try to reach the top from Nepal. By April 23, the path to the area near the mountain had been cleared. Hundreds of climbers from all over the world were getting ready to explore the mountain. On the Chinese side, about 200 climbers were planning to climb from Tibet. A few climbers from both sides reached the top in mid-May before the weather changed.

In early April, it was reported that at least 250 climbers on 27 expeditions were headed for Mount Everest. This grew to 289 climbers from 34 groups by April 20. All permits purchased for the spring season of 2015 were extended for two years, allowing those who had been unable to climb due to the earthquake and subsequent avalanches to return. 70 people returned in 2017 under this program.

The first joint military exercise between the People's Republic of China and Nepal, called Sagarmatha Friendship-2017, took place April 16–25. The exercise focused on combating terrorism in the region and disaster-response management.

China announced plans to build hotels, restaurants, and ski resorts on the Tibet side of Everest, having completed a new asphalt road to Everest in 2016. China has had a reputation for being more difficult with permits than Nepal, but has taken steps to improve access to the north side.

British DJ Paul Oakenfold hosted "the highest party on Earth" in April at the Everest base camp, which was attended by over 100 people.

An international collaboration between India and Nepal celebrating the 250th anniversary of the survey of India sought to re-measure the height of Everest. Everest's height was measured by Survey of India in 1855 and 1957, however there is concern that the April 2015 Nepal earthquake and avalanches may have changed the height of the mountain.

The highest-altitude restaurant in the world opened in April at the Nepal base camp.

Cleanup activities from earlier years carried on with fresh vigour, as a special operation in March focused on clearing piled-up debris and further reviving the spot. The Nepal government and Everest expeditions worked together to distribute trash bags to remove debris from this season and from previous years, when people had to evacuate. Collected trash will be removed by helicopters, which usually return empty after delivering supplies. Sherpas were paid for carrying rubbish down the mountain on their return trips.

A French-backed expedition called Everest Green went on an independent waste-retrieval mission, collecting about five tonnes of garbage from the Nepal base camp up to the South Col area. Of that, three tonnes were able to be recycled, and the mission ran for 40 days between April 13 and May 23.

May

On May 13, the first climbers reached the top of Everest from the Chinese Tibet route, with 16 making it to the summit. The group included 6 climbers from India and 10 Sherpa helpers. The ascent opened what one reporter called "the summit blitz". On the morning of May 15, 14 members of the Gurkha Everest Expedition reached the top from the Nepal side. Expedition organizers expected that 150 more would try for the summit in the following days.

By May 15, at least 35 more climbers from around the world had reached the top.

By May 25, about 300–400 people had reached the top of Mount Everest from the Nepal side, and another 120 or so from the Chinese Tibet side.

It was discovered that the 2015 earthquake had changed the famous Hillary Step. The 40-foot climb is now thought to be a gentle rock slope. Various climbers confirmed in 2017 that the rocks of Everest had been altered. The extent of the change has been debated.

A South African filmmaker who tried to climb Everest without a permit was caught and arrested in May. The man may face a fine and could be banned from climbing mountains in Nepal for up to 10 years.

Records

On May 27, 2017, Kami Rita Sherpa, climbing with the Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, reached the top for the 21st time. Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa are the only other people who have done so.

Kilian Jornet completed a fast climb from base camp to the top in 26 hours without bottled oxygen or fixed ropes, setting a new record. The whole climb, including returning to base camp, took under 40 hours, and included a climb of 12,400 feet (3,800 m). A normal climb using a typical route takes about four days from North base camp to the summit. Jornet reached the top again on May 28, 2017, achieving two summits in less than a week. This fast climb was one of the fastest since Hans Kammerlander completed the normal Tibet-side route in 16 hours and 45 minutes in 1996, setting the official Guinness World Record. In 2005, Christian Stangl reached the top of Everest from advanced base camp in 16 hours and 42 minutes.

Famed Nepali-American mountaineer Lhakpa Sherpa reached her eighth summit of Mount Everest, breaking the world record for most times to the top for a woman. On May 21, 2017, Anshu Jamsenpa became the first woman to reach Everest's top twice within a week, doing so in five days, and became the first Indian woman to climb Mount Everest for the fifth time. Also on May 21, Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir became the first Icelandic woman to reach the top, and Ada Tsang became the first Hong Kong woman to reach the top. She finished the climb on her third try, together with a physiotherapist and mountaineer, Elton Ng. On May 22, Yusrina Ya'akob became the first female Malay Singaporean to reach the top.

The second person with no sight to reach the top of Everest, Andy Holzer of Austria, made it to the top on May 21 from the north side, making him the first person with no sight to do so since 2001.

On May 22, 2017, Chris Bombardier became the first person with hemophilia to reach the top of Everest.

Fatalities

In the 21st century, about 7 people have died each year trying to reach the top of Everest or as part of support for base camp. In the four years before 2017, 46 people died, with higher numbers because of avalanches. Some of the biggest dangers come from the cold, falls, avalanches, and high altitude, which can cause altitude sickness.

A trekker to base camp died of altitude sickness in March.

85-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan died on May 6 at Everest base camp in Nepal. He became the oldest man to reach the top of Mount Everest in 2008 at the age of 76, a record that stood until 2013. He returned in 2017 to try to reach the top again. One of his goals in doing this was to inspire and encourage people as they get older.

The weekend of May 19–21 was difficult for four more climbers from India, Australia, the United States, and Slovakia.

Goth Kubir Rai, a Nepali porter, died at base camp in May.

There were reports of four bodies found in a tent in May, but these reports were later found to be false.

Corpse retrievals

The bodies of two people who died the previous year, Goutam Ghosh and Paresh Nath, were removed in 2017. The two had been unable to be retrieved before because of bad weather. The body of Ueli Steck was recovered near Nuptse, where he had fallen. A recovery operation took place for the body of Vladimir Strba, who died at Camp IV (Nepal-side) in May.

At the end of May, the body of Ravi Kumar was recovered from above 8000 meters without losing any more lives. Kumar's body had fallen into a crevasse and the effort to recover it was described as "the most complex recovery mission to ever be attempted on Everest". There was a strong push to recover the body before the window of good weather closed, as the monsoon season to the south grew stronger.

Medical science

The Xtreme Everest project kept working on its long-term goal to learn how the body changes when it is very high up in the mountains. Researchers wanted to understand what happens inside our bodies in such extreme conditions.