Dent d'Hérens

The Dent d'Hérens stands at 4,173 meters and is a striking mountain in the Pennine Alps, right on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It is just a few kilometres west of the famous Matterhorn. This towering peak offers beautiful views and is part of one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world.

Along the east ridge of the Dent d'Hérens, there are several notable points. These include Punta Bianca, reaching 3,917 meters, the impressive Punta Carrel at 3,841 meters, and the significant Punta Maria Cristina standing at 3,703 meters.

For climbers, the Aosta hut, situated at 2,781 meters, serves as an important base. It is used for what is known as the normal route up the mountain, providing support and shelter for those attempting the summit.

Naming

The Dent d'Hérens gets its name from the Val d'Hérens, a valley north of the mountain. It might have been called Dent Blanche at first, but that name is now used for a nearby peak called the Dent Blanche. In the past, maps sometimes called the area Weisszahnhorn, meaning "White Tooth Peak" in German. The French name Dent Blanche started being used in 1820. Because the Dent d'Hérens often hides behind the Dent Blanche, it was sometimes hard to see, causing name confusion. People in the lower part of the valley called it Dent Blanche, while those higher up used names like Dent de Rong or Dent d'Erins. The current names became official after the Dufour map was finished in 1862.

Geography

The Dent d'Hérens is a tall mountain on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It is between the Swiss area called Valais to the north and the Italian region called Aosta Valley to the south. Water from the north flows into the Rhone River, and water from the south flows into the Po River.

This mountain is about 4 kilometers west of the famous Matterhorn and near the village of Cervinia on the Italian side. On the Swiss side, it rises above the Zmutt Glacier in the quiet valley of Zmutt, about 12 kilometers from the town of Zermatt. Even though its name sounds similar, this mountain does not overlook the valley called Val d'Hérens; that is the Dent Blanche, a few kilometers north.

Climbing history

The first ascent of the Dent d'Hérens was made by Florence Crauford Grove, William Edward Hall, Reginald Somerled Macdonald, Montagu Woodmass, Melchior Anderegg, Jean-Pierre Cachat and Peter Perren on 12 August 1863. Another climber, Edward Whymper, tried to reach the top a few days earlier but turned back because of loose rocks.

The first winter climb was done by M. Piacenza, J. J. Carrell and G. B. Pellisier on 16 January 1910.

The north face of the mountain was first climbed by George Finch, T. G. B. Forster and R. Peto on August 2, 1923. Later, in 1925, another team took a more direct path up the same face.