Guernsey

Guernsey is the second-largest island in the Channel Islands, located 27 miles west of the Cotentin Peninsula in Normandy. It is the largest island in the Bailiwick of Guernsey, which also includes five other inhabited islands: Alderney, Herm, Jethou, Lihou, and Sark, along with many small islets and rocks. The island covers an area of 24 square miles and is home to most of the bailiwick's population of 63,950 people.

Historically, Guernsey was part of the Duchy of Normandy until 1204, after which it remained loyal to the English crown. During the Second World War, it was occupied by Nazi Germany for five years before being liberated on 9 May 1945, a day now celebrated each year as Liberation Day.

Today, Guernsey is a self-governing dependency of the British Crown and is not part of the United Kingdom. The British monarch serves as the head of state, while the head of government is the President of the Policy and Resources Committee. The island's parliament and government is known as the States of Guernsey, and it is divided into ten parishes, with its main town being Saint Peter Port.

The island's largest industries include financial services, tourism, and agriculture, with cattle being especially famous. Guernsey's culture reflects strong British influences, as seen in its use of the pound sterling and the use of English as the main language. It also has Norman and French culture influences, including the traditional language, Guernésiais. Famous French writer Victor Hugo lived in Guernsey for fifteen years, writing some of his most well-known works there.

Toponymy

The name "Guernsey", like that of nearby Jersey, comes from old Old Norse words. The part "‑ey" means "island" in Old Norse. The first part, "guern(s)", is not fully known — it might come from an old name like Grani or Warinn, or perhaps from a word meaning spruce or pine.

Guernsey has had other names throughout history, such as the Lenur islands, Sarnia, Lisia for Guernsey, and Angia for Jersey.

History

Main article: History of Guernsey

See also: Maritime history of the Channel Islands, Archaeology of the Channel Islands, and German occupation of the Channel Islands

Early history

Around 6000 BC, rising seas created the English Channel and separated the Norman promontories that became the bailiwicks of Guernsey and Jersey from continental Europe. Neolithic farmers then settled on its coast and built the dolmens and menhirs found in the islands today, providing evidence of human presence dating back to around 5000 BC.

Evidence of Roman settlements on the island, and the discovery of amphorae from the Herculaneum area and Spain, show evidence of an intricate trading network with regional and long-distance trade. Buildings found in La Plaiderie, St. Peter Port dating from 100 to 400 AD appear to be warehouses. The earliest evidence of shipping was the discovery of a wreck of a ship in St Peter Port harbour, which has been named Asterix. It is thought to be a 3rd-century Roman cargo vessel and was probably at anchor or grounded when a fire broke out. Travelling from the Kingdom of Gwent, Saint Sampson, later the abbot of Dol in Brittany, is credited with the introduction of Christianity to Guernsey.

Middle Ages

In 933, the Cotentin Peninsula, including Avranchin, which included the islands, were placed by the French King Ranulf under the control of William I. The island of Guernsey and the other Channel Islands represent the last remnants of the medieval Duchy of Normandy.

About the year 1030, the fleet of Robert, Duke of Normandy, which was to support the claim of his cousins Alfred and Edward to the English crown against Canute, was scattered by a storm, and was driven down the Channel to Guernsey. The Duke was taken to St. Michael's Abbey. In gratitude for the abbot's hospitality, he gave all the lands within the Close of the Vale to the abbot forever as fief of St. Michael, with permission to extend this to the northwestern part of the island as soon as settlers could be found to clear and cultivate the land; and he gave them engineers and workmen to complete the castle of St. Michael and to erect such other forts as were deemed necessary.

Around the middle of the eleventh century, Guernsey was beset by a new breed of pirates who built a castle called Le Château des Sarrasins in the centre of the island near the present church of Catel; Duke William of Normandy (later the Conqueror) commissioned his Esquire Sampson d'Anneville to fight them. As a reward, in 1061 he received half of the western part of the island under the title of Fief d'Anneville. Sampson attracted many emigrants from Normandy to settle on his feudal estate, and Duke William distributed lands in Guernsey to other Norman landowners, such as the estates of Sausmarez, Les Bruniaux de St. Martin, Mauxmarquis, Rohais, etc.

Most of Guernsey was soon cultivated, and around this time the island was divided into ten parishes. Each free fief had a manorial court to hear disputes between tenants, and the Abbot of St. Michael and the Seigneur d'Anneville had the right of high jurisdiction and the privilege of trying and executing criminals, respectively, so that the civil order of the island was fully regulated even before the Norman conquest of England.

In 1204, when King John lost the continental portion of the Duchy to Philip II of France, the islands remained part of the Kingdom of England. The islands were then recognised by the 1259 Treaty of Paris as part of Henry III's territories.

During the Middle Ages, the island was a haven for pirates that would use the "lamping technique" to ground ships close to the island. This intensified during the Hundred Years War, when, starting in 1339, the island was occupied by the Capetians on several occasions. The Guernsey Militia was first mentioned as operational in 1331 and would help defend the island for a further 600 years.

In 1372, the island was invaded by Aragonese mercenaries under the command of Owain Lawgoch (remembered as Yvon de Galles), who was in the pay of the French king. Owain and his dark-haired mercenaries were later absorbed into Guernsey legend as invading fairies from across the sea.

Early modern period

As part of the peace between England and France, Pope Sixtus IV issued in 1483 a papal bull granting the "Privilege of Neutrality'", by which "the Islands, their harbours and seas, as far as the eye can see," were considered neutral territory. Anyone molesting Islanders would be excommunicated. A royal charter in 1548 confirmed the neutrality. The French attempted to invade Jersey a year later in 1549 but were defeated by the militia. The neutrality lasted another century, until William III of England abolished the privilege due to privateering activity against Dutch ships.

In the mid-16th century, the island was influenced by Calvinist reformers from Normandy. During the Marian persecutions, three women, the Guernsey Martyrs, were burned at the stake for their Protestant beliefs.

During the English Civil War, Guernsey sided with the Parliamentarians. The allegiance was not total, however; there were a few Royalist uprisings in the southwest of the island, while Castle Cornet was occupied by the Governor, Sir Peter Osborne, and Royalist troops. In December 1651, with full honours of war, Castle Cornet surrendered—the last Royalist outpost anywhere in the British Isles to surrender.

Wars against France and Spain during the 17th and 18th centuries allowed Guernsey shipowners and sea captains to exploit the island's proximity to mainland Europe by applying for letters of marque and turning their cargo ships into privateering vessels.

By the beginning of the 18th century, Guernsey's residents were starting to settle in North America, in particular founding Guernsey County in Ohio in 1810. The threat of invasion by Napoleon prompted many defensive structures to be built at the end of that century. The early 19th century saw a dramatic increase in the prosperity of the island, due to its success in the global maritime trade, and the rise of the stone industry. Maritime trade suffered a major decline with the move away from sailing craft as materials such as iron and steel were not available on the island.

Le Braye du Valle was a tidal channel that made the northern extremity of Guernsey, Le Clos du Valle, a tidal island. Le Braye du Valle was drained and reclaimed in 1806 by the British Government as a defence measure. The eastern end of the former channel became the town and harbour (from 1820) of St Sampson's, now the second biggest port in Guernsey. The western end of La Braye is now Le Grand Havre. The roadway called "The Bridge" across the end of the harbour at St Sampson's recalls the bridge that formerly linked the two parts of Guernsey at high tide. New roads were built and main roads were metalled for ease of use by the military. Infrastructure was funded by creating money debt-free starting in 1815.

Contemporary period

During the First World War, about 3,000 island men served in the British Expeditionary Force. Of these, about 1,000 served in the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry regiment formed from the Royal Guernsey Militia in 1916.

From 30 June 1940, during the Second World War, the Channel Islands were occupied by German troops. Out of a total population of 41,000, some 17,000 people were evacuated to England before the German occupation. The evacuees included 80 per cent of Guernsey children who lived with relatives or strangers in Great Britain during the war. Most children returned home after the war ended in 1945. The occupying German forces deported over 1,000 Guernsey residents to camps in southern Germany, notably to the Lager Lindele (Lindele Camp) near Biberach an der Riß and to Oflag VII-C in Laufen. Guernsey was very heavily fortified during World War II, out of all proportion to the island's strategic value. German defences and alterations remain visible, particularly to Castle Cornet and around the northern coast of the island. Guernsey and Jersey were both liberated on 9 May 1945, now celebrated as Liberation Day on the two islands.

During the late 1940s, the island repaired the damage caused to its buildings during the occupation. The tomato industry started up again and thrived until the 1970s when the significant increase in world oil prices led to a sharp, terminal decline. Tourism has remained important. Finance businesses grew in the 1970s, expanding in the next two decades, and are important employers. Guernsey's constitutional and trading relationships with the UK are largely unaffected by Brexit.

Geography

Guernsey is an island in the Mont Saint-Michel Bay at about 49°35′N 2°20′W / 49.583°N 2.333°W / 49.583; -2.333. Together with Herm and some smaller islands, it covers an area of 71 square kilometres (27 sq mi) and has a coastline of about 46 kilometres (29 mi). The island's height varies from sea level up to 110 m (360 ft) at Hautnez on Guernsey.

The area around Guernsey has many smaller islands, islets, rocks, and reefs. With large tides and fast currents, sailing here can be tricky. The changing tides create rich environments, and some areas are important for wildlife.

Guernsey has mild winters and summers. The warmest months are July and August, with temperatures around 20 °C (68 °F), sometimes a bit warmer. February is usually the coldest month, averaging about 7 °C (44 °F). Snow is rare, and the island usually doesn’t get below freezing. December, November, and January are the wettest months, while July is the sunniest.

The island plans to become carbon neutral by 2050.

Climate

Geology

Main article: Geology of Guernsey

Politics

Main articles: Politics of Guernsey and Elections in Guernsey

Guernsey is a self-governing parliamentary representative democracy and a British Crown Dependency. The Lieutenant Governor of Guernsey is the representative of the Crown. Since 2022, the Lieutenant Governor has been Lieutenant General Richard Cripwell. Guernsey is not part of the United Kingdom, but the British Government handles its defence and most foreign relations.

The whole area, including Alderney and Sark, forms the Bailiwick of Guernsey.

States of Guernsey

Main article: States of Guernsey

The States of Guernsey is the island's governing body, called the States of Deliberation. It has 38 elected members who serve four-year terms. There are also two representatives from Alderney. The Bailiff leads the group. Laws must be approved by the British Government before they can be used.

Legal system

Main article: Law of Guernsey

Guernsey's laws come from old customs, with ideas from English law. The Bailiff is the main judge and leader of the government. There are also sixteen Jurats who help decide cases. The Royal Court handles most legal matters.

External relations

Main article: External relations of Guernsey

Guernsey is not part of the European Union, but it had special ties with it until Brexit. Now, there are more rules for travel and trade.

Parishes

Main article: Parishes of Guernsey

Guernsey has ten parishes, each run by a group called a Douzaine. Members are elected to help manage local affairs. Each parish also has two Constables who carry out decisions.

Economy

Financial services like banking, fund management, and insurance make up about 37% of Guernsey's money. Tourism, making things, and growing plants like tomatoes and flowers have been getting smaller. Guernsey has low taxes, which makes it a popular place for private-equity funds.

Guernsey does not have its own big bank but makes its own coins and money. People in Guernsey can use both Guernsey money and UK money. In 2016, there was a lot of money saved up on the island. Guernsey also borrowed a big amount of money in 2015.

Guernsey has a special code to identify it, which is GG for short and GGY for longer names.

In 2016, over 32,000 people had jobs in Guernsey. About 20% of these jobs were in finance.

Infrastructure

Public things like water, the harbours, and the airport are controlled by Guernsey. Electricity and postal services are run by companies owned by Guernsey.

Gas comes from a private company. In 1998, Guernsey and Jersey started working together to manage electricity cables between Europe and the islands. These cables are now the main way the islands get power.

Guernsey used to run its own telephone service, but it was sold and is now run by a different company. There are other companies that also provide mobile service.

The postal boxes and telephone boxes in Guernsey are blue, like in the UK, but some telephone boxes are yellow. The oldest post box still in use in the UK and Ireland is in Guernsey and is from 1853.

Transport

Main article: Transport in Guernsey

The main way people get around Guernsey is by car. There are many small roads where pedestrians, cyclists, and horse riders have priority.

Buses in Guernsey are run by a company called Buses.gg. In their first year, people took 1.7 million bus trips.

Guernsey Airport is the only airport and flies to the UK, Alderney, Jersey, and some other places. Guernsey owns its own airline called Aurigny.

Saint Peter Port Harbour is the main port. There are ferries to the UK, France, and sometimes Jersey. In the summer, many cruise ships visit Guernsey.

Business

As of 2014^[update], the finance industry is the biggest part of Guernsey's money-making, creating about 40% of the island's GDP and giving jobs to about 21% of its workers. Banks started coming to Guernsey in the 1960s to avoid high taxes and strict rules. The person who watches over this industry is the Guernsey Financial Services Commission, started in 1987. In 2015, Guernsey and Jersey made a group to help solve problems with money services.

Before finance became big, Guernsey made things from stone and grew plants. Growing plants went down because of high oil prices and cheap gas helping growers in the Netherlands. Guernsey is home to Specsavers Optical Group, and Healthspan also has its main office here.

Tourism

Guernsey has been a place for tourists since the Victorian times, with the first tourist guide published in 1834. In the 1800s, two train companies from the UK raced to bring people to Guernsey, until a ship sank in 1899.

Guernsey takes part in Britain in Bloom, with different places winning awards. The island has many old buildings and museums from when it was used in wars.

Many big ships stop at Guernsey each year, bringing over 100,000 visitors for the day.

Taxation

Guernsey, Alderney and Sark each collect their own taxes, although in 1949 Alderney gave some of its tax rights to Guernsey.

People who live in Guernsey pay income tax at 20% on all their money, but there is a limit to how much tax they pay. People who do not live in Guernsey only pay tax on money they make or own in Guernsey. Since 2019, the limits on how much tax people pay have gone up.

Guernsey has different levels of tax for companies depending on what kind of money they make. Some companies pay 0% tax, some pay 10%, and some pay 20%. Guernsey does not have taxes on things like profits from selling things, inheritances, or adding extra taxes. Because of this, Guernsey is sometimes called a tax haven. In 2012, the UK stopped a special tax rule that let people sell things without adding extra tax. Tax money makes up 22.4% of Guernsey's total money.

People who work and earn money pay a certain amount in social insurance, and there are different rates for different kinds of workers.

Society

The population of Guernsey is about 63,026 people. The average age for men is 40 years, and for women, it is 42 years. People in Guernsey tend to live long lives, with men living about 80 years and women about 85 years on average.

Guernsey follows the same travel and immigration rules as the United Kingdom. After the UK left the European Union, people from European Union countries other than the UK or Ireland need a visa to visit Guernsey unless they are just visiting for a short time. Workers from outside the UK need special documents to live and work there.

Guernsey has special housing rules to manage its population. Some homes are for everyone, but others are only for people who meet certain conditions, like being born on the island or having special permission to live there. These rules help control who can live on the island and keep housing affordable for some people.

Education

Main article: Education in Guernsey

Guernsey's schools follow the same learning plan as schools in England. There are 10 primary schools, along with two junior schools and three infant schools. In the past, students took a special exam at age 11 to decide which secondary school they would go to, but this exam is no longer used.

Students can stay in school until they are 16. After that, they can choose to go to a special center for older students or attend private colleges to study more advanced subjects. There are no universities on the island, but students can go to universities in the United Kingdom with help from the government for costs.

Culture

Main article: Culture of Guernsey

The famous French painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir visited Guernsey in 1883. He painted many pictures of the beautiful views, especially the bay and beach at Moulin Huet on the south coast.

Guernsey cattle are well-known around the world. These cows give rich, creamy milk, and their beef is special and tasty. There is also a unique breed of goat called the Royal Golden Guernsey Goat with golden fur. This breed almost disappeared after the Second World War, but one woman saved them by hiding her goats during difficult times.

Guernsey is also famous for its special foods. One popular dish is Guernsey bean jar, a warm stew made with beans, pork, and beef. Another treat is Guernsey gâche, a sweet bread with raisins.

English is the main language spoken today, but the local language, Guernésiais, is still remembered by some people. This language is part of the Norman language family.

The writer Victor Hugo lived in Guernsey for fifteen years and wrote some of his most famous books there, including Les Misérables. His home, Hauteville House, is now a museum.

Guernsey has its own ways of playing sports. The island takes part in the Island Games and the Commonwealth Games. Football is very popular, and Guernsey has its own league. Rugby, tennis, and even racing on the beach are also enjoyed by many.