Orkney

Orkney, also known as the Orkney Islands, is a group of islands off the north coast of mainland Scotland. It is part of the Northern Isles along with Shetland and has about 70 islands, 20 of which people live on. The biggest island is called Mainland, and the main town is Kirkwall.

People have lived on Orkney for at least 10,000 years. Over time, different groups such as farmers, Picts, and Norsemen have lived there. In 1472, Orkney became part of Scotland.

Orkney has a mild climate and rich soil, making farming very important. The islands also use wind and sea power to make more energy than they need. The people there, called Orcadians, speak a special version of the Scots language and have many old stories and traditions.

Orkney is famous for its very old and well-preserved buildings from ancient times. One area, called the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The islands are also home to many sea creatures and birds.

Etymology

Long ago, travelers and writers described the northern tip of Britain as Orcas. Later, Roman writers called these islands Orcades. Over time, many different languages had their own names for the islands.

People have had many ideas about where the name "Orkney" comes from. Some think it might mean "young pigs" from an old language. Others think it could be linked to the word for "whale." When Norwegian people settled there, they thought the name meant "Seal Islands." Today, we often just call them the Orkneys, a name that became common a few hundred years ago.

History

Main article: History of Orkney

Prehistory

Main article: Prehistoric Orkney

Stone tools from around 8000 BC have been found on the islands, showing people lived there long ago. Charred hazelnut shells from 6820–6660 BC show Mesolithic tribes were present. The first known permanent home is from 3500 BC on Papa Westray. Skara Brae, a well-preserved village from around 3100 BC, is one of Europe’s best Neolithic sites. Other old remains include standing stones and tombs. In 2021, two special stone balls were found in a 5500-year-old tomb on Sanday.

During the Bronze Age, fewer big stone buildings were made, but metalworking began. Few sites from this time exist, but there are some impressive ones like Plumcake Mound near the Ring of Brodgar.

Iron Age

Excavations show roundhouses from about 700 BC. The most famous Iron Age buildings are brochs, large round towers, like the Broch of Burroughston and the Broch of Gurness. Other structures include underground stores and special roundhouses near broch sites.

During the Roman time, a leader from Orkney is said to have met the Roman Emperor Claudius in AD 43. After the Romans left, Orkney became part of the Pictish kingdom. The Picts lived comfortably there, but later influence came from Celtic missionaries. The North Germanic peoples arrived in the late 8th century, changing the islands’ history.

Norwegian rule

Main article: Earldom of Orkney

Norwegian settlers arrived in the late 8th and early 9th centuries. Vikings used the islands as a base for raids. In 875, Norwegian king Harald Fairhair took control of Orkney and Shetland. Rognvald Eysteinsson became the first earl, and his family ruled for centuries. Thorfinn Skull-splitter was a famous ruler who fought in battles and was buried at the broch of Hoxa.

Orkney turned to Christianity around 995 when King Olaf Tryggvasson insisted the islands become Christian. Thorfinn the Mighty ruled with his sons, extending control from Dublin to Shetland. After Thorfinn’s death, his sons Paul and Erlend took over, and their dispute led to the martyrdom of Magnus Erlendsson, which resulted in St Magnus Cathedral being built.

The Scottish crown claimed control of parts of mainland Britain from Norway in 1098. In 1195, Shetland became separate from Orkney. In 1231, the Norse earls ended with Jon Haraldsson’s murder, and the earldom passed to new rulers.

The death of Margaret, Maid of Norway, in 1290 led to disputes over Scotland’s rule. In the 14th century, Caithness was lost, and by 1379, the Sinclair family became earls of Orkney.

Evidence of Vikings includes settlements, place names, and runic inscriptions.

Absorption by Scotland, and later Great Britain and the United Kingdom

In 1468, Orkney and Shetland were pledged by Norway as security for a dowry, and Orkney became part of Scotland in 1472. From then on, everyday people became more visible in history. Scottish entrepreneurs helped build a community of farmers, fishermen, and merchants.

From the 16th century, boats from Scotland and the Netherlands fished herring. Agricultural improvements in the 17th century led to better farms. Orkney people worked for the Hudson’s Bay Company in Canada due to their skills and weather experience.

In 1707, Orkney became part of the Kingdom of Great Britain, and in 1800, part of the United Kingdom.

20th century

Orkney had a Royal Navy base at Scapa Flow during World War I and World War II. After World War I, German ships were scuttled there. In World War II, a German U-boat sank a British ship, leading to barriers being built that also created roads between islands. The navy base closed in 1957. Orkney’s population grew again in the late 20th century, becoming a great place to live.

Overview of population trends

Orkney’s population was highest in the mid-19th century at over 32,000 but dropped to fewer than 18,000 by the 1970s. The population grew by 11% by 2011. Genetic studies show that 25% of Orkney’s people have Norwegian ancestors from the 9th century.

Current demographics

In 2022, the number of people living in Orkney was 21,958, which is a bit more than in 2011. Most of these people, about 81%, live on the biggest island, called the mainland.

Many people in Orkney speak English or Scots. Some people also follow different beliefs. About 36% said they were Christian, with most of them belonging to the Church of Scotland or the Roman Catholic church. A small group, about 2%, follow other beliefs, including pagan traditions. Most people, around 62%, said they did not follow any specific belief or did not answer this question.

Geography

Orkney is a group of islands off the north coast of Scotland, separated by the Pentland Firth, a wide stretch of water. The islands stretch about 80 kilometres (50 miles) long and cover 975 square kilometres (376 square miles).

The islands are mostly flat with some rocky hills and cliffs. Many smaller lakes, called lochs, dot the landscape, and the coastlines are very indented. The area is known for strong winds and few trees. The biggest towns are Kirkwall and Stromness, with Finstown being another notable village.

Orkney has mild weather for its location, thanks to warm ocean currents. Summers are soft with long daylight hours, while winters can have strong winds and long nights.

Governance

The local authority is the Orkney Islands Council, based at the Council Offices on School Place in Kirkwall.

Administrative history

In 1472, the Orkney Islands became part of Scotland. Over time, more Scottish ways of running things were introduced. Orkney and Shetland kept their own legal systems until 1612 when Scotland’s general laws were applied.

In 1667, special groups called Commissioners of Supply were set up in Scotland. Orkney and Shetland, even though they were one area, had separate groups. In 1890, new elected councils were created, and Orkney and Shetland became separate counties.

Orkney County Council met for the first time on 22 May 1890 in Kirkwall. Local government changed again in 1975 and 1996, but Orkney continued to be run by its own council.

Parishes and communities

Further information: List of civil parishes in Scotland

Parishes have been around since medieval times. They used to have special boards and councils, but they don't have any official jobs anymore. However, people still use them to show statistics.

Orkney has many civil parishes, including places like Birsay, Harray, Eday, and many more.

Community councils

Community councils started in 1975. They help represent the people living in different areas, but they don't have special powers. Orkney has many community councils, like ones for Birsay, Eday, Evie and Rendall, and others. These councils help bring people together in their communities.

Islands

Main article: List of Orkney islands

The Mainland

Main article: Mainland, Orkney

The Mainland is the largest island in Orkney. It has two main towns, Kirkwall and Stromness, and is the center for travel with ferries and flights to other islands and places beyond. Most people in Orkney live here, and there is plenty of good land for farming. The Mainland is split into East and West parts based on where Kirkwall is. West Mainland includes areas like Stromness, while East Mainland has places such as St Ola and Tankerness.

The land is mostly flat, especially in the east, but there are cliffs along the north and west coasts. There are also two big lakes called the Loch of Harray and the Loch of Stenness. The island has many old buildings from times long ago, including some that are part of a special group called the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

The North Isles

The islands in the north are many and of medium size. They are connected to the Mainland by ferries and flights. People make a living here mainly by farming, fishing, and tourism.

The farthest north is North Ronaldsay, close to Sanday. Westray has about 550 people and connects to Papa Westray. Eday has moorland in the middle and used to have industries like getting peat and cutting limestone.

Rousay, Egilsay, and Gairsay are north of the west Mainland. Rousay is famous for its old buildings, and Egilsay has the ruins of a special round church. Wyre has the remains of an old castle. Stronsay and Papa Stronsay are far to the east. Auskerry has only five people. Shapinsay is close to Kirkwall and has a big castle called Balfour Castle.

Other small, empty islands in this group include Calf of Eday, Damsay, Eynhallow, Faray, Helliar Holm, Holm of Faray, Holm of Huip, Holm of Papa, Holm of Scockness, Kili Holm, Linga Holm, Muckle Green Holm, Rusk Holm and Sweyn Holm.

The South Isles

The islands in the south are around Scapa Flow. Hoy is the second largest island, and its northern part has the highest point in Orkney. The Old Man of Hoy is a famous rock standing tall by the sea. Graemsay and Flotta connect to the Mainland and Hoy by ferry, and Flotta has a big oil place. South Walls has an old tower and is linked to Hoy by a road. Burray is east of Scapa Flow and connects to South Ronaldsay, which has special events like a horse festival and a ploughing match each year. South Ronaldsay, Burray, Glimps Holm, and Lamb Holm all connect to the Mainland by roads called the Churchill Barriers.

Empty islands in the south include Calf of Flotta, Cava, Copinsay, Corn Holm, Fara, Glimps Holm, Hunda, Lamb Holm, Rysa Little, Switha and Swona. The Pentland Skerries are farther south, closer to mainland Scotland.

Politics

Orkney is represented in the House of Commons as part of the Orkney and Shetland constituency, which elects one Member of Parliament (MP). The current MP is Alistair Carmichael. This area has been represented by the Liberal Democrats or the former Liberal Party since 1950.

In the Scottish Parliament, the Orkney Islands constituency elects one Member of the Scottish Parliament (MSP) by the first past the post system. The current MSP is Liam McArthur of the Liberal Democrats.

In 2014, Orkney voted against Scottish independence, with 67.2% choosing to stay part of the United Kingdom. In 2016, 63.2% of Orkney voters chose to remain in the European Union.

In 2022, plans were made for an "Island Forum" to help Orkney, Shetland, the Western Isles, Anglesey, and the Isle of Wight work together on shared issues. In 2023, Orkney looked at different ways to govern itself, including staying in the United Kingdom.

Economy

The people of Orkney are often employed, with more being active in jobs than in Scotland overall. Farming is very important, using much of the land for growing food and raising animals like sheep and cattle. The islands also produce milk used to make cheese and have factories making drinks, jewelry, and other goods.

Fishing is still a part of the economy, though not as big as before, focusing on fish like herring and shellfish. Orkney also benefits from tourism, with visitors coming to see ancient sites and enjoy the beautiful landscapes. There are also factories, construction work, and services like hotels and healthcare.

The islands use lots of clean energy from wind and waves, creating more power than the people there need. This extra energy is being used to make hydrogen, a clean fuel, which helps power vehicles and heating systems.

Orkney has several airports and ferry services that connect the islands to each other and to the Scottish mainland. Local buses help people travel around the islands. The islands also have their own newspaper and radio stations.

Language, literature, and folklore

Orkney has an interesting history with languages and stories. Long ago, the islands were home to people called the Picts, who spoke a language called Brythonic. Later, people from Norway, called the Norse, came and brought their own language. This changed over time into a local language called Norn, which slowly disappeared by the late 1700s. Today, many people in Orkney speak a special version of the Scots language, though it is changing because of things like TV and school.

Orkney also has many old stories and traditions. One popular part of these stories is about magical beings called trows, which are like trolls and come from the islands' ties to Scandinavia. In the past, some special ceremonies took place at a place called the Odin Stone.

Some well-known writers from Orkney include the poet Edwin Muir, the poet and novelist George Mackay Brown, and the novelist Eric Linklater.

Languages

In a recent count in 2022, out of over 21,000 people old enough to talk, about 8,300 said they could speak or understand the Scots language. A smaller group, about 177 people, said they could speak or understand the Gaelic language.

Orcadians

Main article: Orcadians

An Orcadian is someone who lives in the Orkney Islands, and they often feel very proud of where they come from. Even though Orkney became part of Scotland in 1472, many people there still think of themselves as Orcadians first. In a big survey in 2011, people in Orkney said they felt Scottish about as much as people elsewhere in Scotland do.

People in Orkney sometimes call the big land nearby just "Scotland," and they use "the mainland" to mean the biggest island in Orkney. The islands have their own special ways, even though some traditions like tartan patterns and bagpipes usually come from the Scottish Highlands. There are even special tartan designs for Orkney, and some pipe bands play there.

People who aren’t from Orkney but live there are sometimes called “ferry loupers” by locals, which means “people who jump off the ferry.” This fun name has been used for a very long time.

Natural history

Orkney is a beautiful place full of wildlife. You can see grey and common seals in the water, and seabirds like puffins, kittiwakes, black guillemots, ravens, and great skuas flying around. Whales, dolphins, and otters also live near the coast.

Inside the islands, you can find special animals and plants. One is the Orkney vole, a tiny rodent that only lives on some of the islands. The coastline has many colorful flowers, like sea aster, sea squill, and sea thrift. There is even a small forest called Happy Valley with gardens and trees.

The Orkney char, a type of fish, used to live in a lake on Hoy Island but is now gone. Orkney also has special areas to protect its nature, including places for birds and marine life.

Flag

Main article: Flag of Orkney

In 2007, Orkney chose a new flag after a public competition. The flag has a blue and yellow Nordic cross on a red background. Before this, people sometimes used another flag called the flag of St Magnus, which had a red cross on a yellow background. However, this flag was too similar to others to be officially used as Orkney's flag.

Freedom of Orkney

The Freedom of Orkney is a special award given by the Orkney Islands Council. This award can only be given two times during each five-year period of the Council. The tradition started in the mid-1400s.

Some people and groups who have received this award include:

• Ernest Marwick (1975)
• John Rae (2017)
• HMS Orkney (1984)
• Lord and Lady Grimond (1987)
• Queen's Own Highlanders (1990)
• The Northern Diving Group of the Royal Navy (2021)