York

York is a historic city in North Yorkshire, England. It sits where the rivers Ouse and Foss meet and has many important old buildings, such as its large church called a minster, a castle, and strong city walls. As of the 2021 census, about 141,685 people lived in the main part of York.

The city began a long time ago, in the year AD 71, when the Romans called it Eboracum. It was an important place for the Romans and later for several kingdoms, including Deira, Northumbria, and Scandinavian York. During the Middle Ages, York became a center for religious activities in northern England and a place where people traded wool. In the 1800s, it grew as a key spot for railroads and making sweets.

During the Second World War, York was bombed, which damaged some of its historic buildings. Fixing these buildings took many years, and work continued until the 1960s. Today, the city is governed by the City of York Council, which takes care of local services for York and the surrounding areas, including villages and the nearby town of Haxby.

Toponymy

York has had many names throughout history. The Romans called it Eburacum or Eboracum, which might mean "place of yew trees" or "property of Eburos", a person’s name.

Later, the Anglo-Saxons called it Eoforwīc, meaning "boar town", because the first part of the name sounded like their word for "boar". The Vikings changed this to Jórvík or Jórk, and this eventually became the modern name "York" in the 13th century. An older English form, Everwyk or Everwich, was used but disappeared after the 15th century.

History

Main article: History of York

For a chronological guide, see Timeline of York.

Early history

Archaeological evidence suggests that people lived in the region of York between 8000 and 7000 BC, although it is not known whether their settlements were permanent or temporary. By the time of the Roman conquest of Britain, the area was occupied by a tribe known to the Romans as the Brigantes. The Brigantian tribal area initially became a Roman client state, but later its leaders became more hostile and the Roman Ninth Legion was sent north of the Humber into Brigantian territory.

The city was founded in AD 71, when the Ninth Legion conquered the Brigantes and constructed a wooden military fortress on flat ground above the river Ouse, close to its confluence with the river Foss. The fortress, whose walls were rebuilt in stone by the VI legion based there subsequent to the IX legion, covered an area of 50 acres (20 ha) and was inhabited by 6,000 legionary soldiers. The site of the principia (headquarters) of the fortress lies under the foundations of York Minster, and excavations in the undercroft have revealed part of the Roman structure and columns.

The Roman emperors Hadrian, Septimius Severus and Constantius I all held court in York during their various campaigns. During his stay between AD 207 and 211 the emperor Severus proclaimed York capital of the province of Britannia Inferior, and it is likely that it was he who granted York the privileges of a colonia or city. Constantius I died in AD 306 during his stay in York, and his son Constantine the Great was proclaimed emperor by the troops based in the fortress. In AD 314 a bishop from York attended the Council at Arles to represent Christians from the province.

While the Roman colonia and fortress were on high ground, by AD 400 the town was victim to occasional flooding from the rivers Ouse and Foss, and the population reduced. York declined in the post-Roman era, and was taken and settled by the Angles in the 5th century.

Reclamation of parts of the town was initiated in the 7th century under King Edwin of Northumbria, and York became his chief city. The first wooden minster church was built in York for the baptism of Edwin in 627, according to the Venerable Bede. Edwin ordered the small wooden church be rebuilt in stone; however, he was killed in 633, and the task of completing the stone minster fell to his successor Oswald. In the following century, Alcuin of York came to the cathedral school of York. He had a long career as a teacher and scholar, first at the school at York now known as St Peter's School, founded in AD 627, and later as Charlemagne's leading advisor on ecclesiastical and educational affairs.

In 866, Northumbria was in the midst of internecine struggles when the Vikings raided and captured York. As a prosperous economic centre, York was a target for the Vikings. Led by Ivar the Boneless and Halfdan, Scandinavian forces (referred to by the Anglo-Saxons as the "Great Heathen Army") attacked the town on All Saints' Day. Launching the assault on a holy day proved an effective tactical move – most of York's leaders were in the cathedral, leaving the town vulnerable to attack and unprepared for battle.

After it was conquered, the city was renamed from the Old English Eoforwic to Jorvik. It became the capital of Viking territory in Britain, and at its peak had more than 10,000 inhabitants. This was a population second only to London within Great Britain. Jorvik proved an important economic and trade centre for the Vikings. Norse coinage was created at the Jorvik mint, while archaeologists have found evidence of a variety of craft workshops around the town's central Coppergate area. These demonstrate that textile production, metalwork, carving, glasswork and jewellery-making were all practised in Jorvik. Materials from as far afield as the Persian Gulf have also been discovered, suggesting that the town was part of an international trading network. Under Viking rule the city became a major river port, part of the extensive Viking trading routes throughout northern Europe.

The last ruler of an independent Jórvík, Eric Bloodaxe, was driven from the city in AD 954 by King Eadred in his successful attempt to complete the unification of England.

After the conquest

In 1068, two years after the Norman invasion of England, the people of York rebelled. Initially they succeeded, but upon the arrival of William the Conqueror the rebellion was suppressed. William, at once, built a wooden fortress on a motte. In 1069, after another rebellion, the king built another timbered castle across the River Ouse. These were destroyed in 1069 and rebuilt by William about the time of his ravaging Northumbria in what is called the "Harrying of the North" where he destroyed everything from York to Durham. The remains of the rebuilt castles, now in stone, are visible on either side of the River Ouse.

The first stone minster church was badly damaged by fire in the uprising, and the Normans built a minster on a new site. Around the year 1080, Archbishop Thomas started building the cathedral that in time became the current Minster.

As York began to recover and rebuild following the Norman invasion, it slowly reemerged as an administrative and religious hub in the region.

In 1190, York Castle was the site of an infamous massacre of its Jewish inhabitants, in which at least 150 people were murdered, although some authorities put the figure as high as 500.

The city, through its location on the River Ouse and its proximity to the Great North Road, became a major trading centre. King John granted the city's first charter in 1212, confirming trading rights in England and Europe. During the later Middle Ages, York merchants imported wine from France, cloth, wax, canvas, and oats from the Low Countries, timber and furs from the Baltic and exported grain to Gascony and grain and wool to the Low Countries.

York became a major cloth-manufacturing and trading centre. Edward I further stimulated the city's economy by using the city as a base for his war in Scotland. The city was the location of significant unrest during the so-called Peasants' Revolt in 1381. The city acquired an increasing degree of autonomy from central government, including the privileges granted by a charter of Richard II in 1396.

16th to 18th centuries

The city underwent a period of economic decline during the Tudor period. Under King Henry VIII the Dissolution of the monasteries saw the end of York's many monastic houses, including several orders of friars, the hospitals of St Nicholas and of St Leonard, the largest such institution in the north of England. This led to the Pilgrimage of Grace, an uprising of northern Catholics in Yorkshire and Lincolnshire opposed to religious reform. Henry VIII restored his authority by establishing the Council of the North in York in the dissolved St Mary's Abbey. The city became a trading and service centre during this period. King Henry VIII spent a lot of time travelling around the country on official Royal Tours also known as "progresses". In 1541 Henry VIII and Catherine Howard visited the city of York on their royal tour. The royal party would have been met outside the walls by civic dignitaries before formally entering the city.

The civic dignitary would have been the Lord Mayor of York, who at the time of their arrival on 15 September 1541 was Robert Hall. He owned the residential property at 74 Low Petergate. Following a special service held in their honour at York minster, Henry and Catherine rode from the minster down to Petergate, one of the five gateways, and over to the closed Benedictine abbey of St. Mary which had been converted into a palace for the King to stay in while he visited York on his Royal Tour.

Anne of Denmark came to York with her children Prince Henry and Princess Elizabeth on 11 June 1603. The Mayor gave her a tour and offered her spiced wine, but she preferred beer. Guy Fawkes, who was born and educated in York, was a member of a group of Roman Catholic restorationists that planned the Gunpowder Plot. Its aim was to displace Protestant rule by blowing up the Houses of Parliament while King James I, the entire Protestant, and even most of the Catholic aristocracy and nobility were inside.

In 1644, during the English Civil War, the Parliamentarians besieged York, and many medieval houses outside the city walls were lost. The barbican at Walmgate Bar was undermined and explosives laid, but the plot was discovered. On the arrival of Prince Rupert, with an army of 15,000 men, the siege was lifted. The Parliamentarians retreated some 6 miles (10 km) from York with Rupert in pursuit, before turning on his army and soundly defeating it at the Battle of Marston Moor. Of Rupert's 15,000 troops, 4,000 were killed and 1,500 captured. The siege was renewed and the city surrendered to Sir Thomas Fairfax on 15 July.

Following the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, and the removal of the garrison from York in 1688, the city was dominated by the gentry and merchants, although the clergy were still important. Competition from Leeds and Hull, together with silting of the River Ouse, resulted in York losing its pre-eminent position as a trading centre, but its role as the social and cultural centre for wealthy northerners was rising. York's many elegant townhouses, such as the Lord Mayor's Mansion House and Fairfax House, date from this period, as do the Assembly Rooms, the Theatre Royal, and the racecourse.

Modern history

The railway promoter George Hudson was responsible for bringing the railway to York in 1839. Although Hudson's career as a railway entrepreneur ended in disgrace and bankruptcy, his promotion of York over Leeds, and of his own railway company (the York and North Midland Railway), helped establish York as a major railway centre by the late-19th century.

The introduction of the railways established engineering in the city. At the turn of the 20th century, the railway accommodated the headquarters and works of the North Eastern Railway, which employed more than 5,500 people. The railway was instrumental in the expansion of Rowntree's Cocoa Works. It was founded in 1862 by Henry Isaac Rowntree, who was joined in 1869 by his brother the philanthropist Joseph Rowntree. Another chocolate manufacturer, Terry's of York, was a major employer. By 1900, the railways and confectionery had become the city's two major industries.

York was a centre of early photography, as described by Hugh Murray in his 1986 book Photographs and Photographers of York: The Early Years, 1844–79. Photographers who had studios in York included William Hayes, William Pumphrey, and Augustus Mahalski who operated on Davygate and Low Petergate in the 19th century, having come to England as a refugee after serving as a Polish lancer in the Austro-Hungarian war.

In 1942 the city was bombed during the Second World War (part of the Baedeker Blitz) by the Luftwaffe of Nazi Germany. 92 people were killed and hundreds were injured. Buildings damaged in the raid included the Railway Station, Rowntree's Factory, Poppleton Road Primary School, St Martin-le-Grand Church, the Bar Convent and the Guildhall which was left in total disrepair until 1960.

With the emergence of tourism, the historic core of York became one of the city's major assets, and in 1968 it was designated a conservation area. The existing tourist attractions were supplemented by the establishment of the National Railway Museum in York in 1975, the Jorvik Viking Centre in 1984 and the York Dungeon in 1986. The opening of the University of York in 1963 added to the prosperity of the city. In March 2012 York's Chocolate Story opened.

York was voted European Tourism City of the Year by European Cities Marketing in June 2007, beating 130 other European cities to gain first place, surpassing Gothenburg in Sweden (second) and Valencia in Spain (third). York was also voted safest place to visit in the 2010 Condé Nast Traveller Readers' Choice Awards. In 2018 The Sunday Times deemed York to be its overall 'Best Place to Live' in Britain, highlighting the city's "perfect mix of heritage and hi-tech" and as a "mini-metropolis with cool cafes, destination restaurants, innovative companies – plus the fastest internet in Britain". The result was confirmed in a YouGov survey, reported in August 2018, with 92 per cent of respondents saying that they liked the city, more than any of 56 other British cities.

Governance

The City of York is run by the City of York Council. This council is a unitary authority, meaning it has the powers of both a county and district council. It provides many local services such as libraries, social services, waste collection, and more. The council has 47 councillors who represent 21 different areas of the city, called wards.

The council is led by a Council Leader, who is chosen by the largest political group in the council. The current leader is from the Liberal Democrats. There is also a Lord Mayor, who is chosen each year to carry out special duties and chair council meetings. The Lord Mayor and Sheriff have important but mostly ceremonial roles.

York is the traditional county town of Yorkshire. It has had the special title of Lord Mayor since 1370, one of only 23 cities in England with this title. The city has its own Sheriff and is part of the ceremonial county of North Yorkshire.

Geography

Further information: Areas of York

Location

York is located in the Vale of York, a flat area with good farmland. It is surrounded by the Pennines, the North York Moors, and the Yorkshire Wolds. The city was built where the Rivers Ouse and Foss meet, on land left by the last ice age.

During Roman times, the land around these rivers was marshy, making it easy to protect. York can flood from the River Ouse and has special walls and barriers to help prevent flooding. In 2000 and again in 2015, York had serious flooding that affected many homes. Some areas around York are too wet for building and are used for farming or as open spaces.

Climate

York has a mild climate with four seasons. It is usually drier and warmer than other parts of Yorkshire and the Humber. Winters can be cold with frost, fog, and sometimes snow, but it usually melts quickly. Summers can be warm, sometimes reaching temperatures above 27 °C. The weather changes often, and York gets the most sunshine from May to July.

Green belt

York’s built-up areas are surrounded by a green belt. This helps protect the countryside and the historic feel of the city by stopping too much building in the surrounding villages and rural areas. The green belt covers nearly all of York and its nearby villages, stretching into North Yorkshire.

Demography

York has many homes and buildings, including rows of houses in Southbank and apartment blocks in Holgate. In 2011, the area known as the York urban area had 153,717 people, and the whole City of York had 198,051 people. By 2021, the population grew to about 202,800 people.

In 2001, there were 181,094 people living in York. Most people lived together as married couples, but many also lived alone. Not many people in York had jobs that needed school learning, and only a few were born outside the United Kingdom. Most people in York said they had no religion, but many were Christian. York has many churches and a special church called York Minster. There are also small groups of people who follow other religions.

Main article: Religion in York

Economy

See also: List of companies based in York

York adds a lot to the UK’s money, with many jobs and businesses. The city has good schools, easy travel, and strong areas like technology and tourism. Many people visit York each year to see places like York Minster.

In recent years, York has changed from making things to providing services like health, education, and technology. Tourism is very important, with millions of visitors each year.

Before, York had big factories, but now it focuses more on science, technology, and creative work. Even with hard times like the COVID-19 pandemic, York is working to bring back jobs and visitors.

Public services

York has important services that help keep the city running safely and healthily. The city has its own police force, which is part of a larger group called North Yorkshire Police. There is also a fire service called North Yorkshire Fire and Rescue Service to help in emergencies.

The city’s main hospital, York Hospital, opened in 1976 and provides many types of healthcare. It has spaces for patients to stay and also offers services for people who visit for check-ups or treatments. The Yorkshire Ambulance Service helps transport people who need medical care quickly.

York also has a magistrates' court and a larger Crown Court for more serious legal matters. These buildings have a long history, with some designed by famous architects. Today, the old prison buildings are used as the Castle Museum, where people can learn about the city’s past.

Transport

Railway

York has been an important place for trains since the first railway arrived in 1839. York railway station is a big stop on the East Coast Main Line and is served by five different train companies:

Water

York is located on the river Ouse, which helped it become an important place for travel. The city grew up as a river port where the Ouse and the Foss rivers meet. Today, both rivers can still be used for boats, though the Foss is only good for a short distance. Until the late 1900s, boats carried goods on the Ouse between York and the port of Hull. Now, most boat travel is for fun.

Roads

York has many major roads because it was founded by the Romans. The city is where several important roads cross, including the A19 road, A59 road, A64 road, and A1079 road. The city has a ring road to help traffic move around it, and many streets in the old part of town are only for walking or have no cars at certain times. There are also park-and-ride bus services to help visitors get into the city centre.

Buses

Buses are the main way people get around York. First York runs most of the local bus services, including the park-and-ride buses. There are also tourist buses and services to nearby towns and cities operated by different companies.

Air

The nearest big airports are Leeds Bradford, Teesside, and Humberside. There are also smaller airports further away, like Manchester and Newcastle. York has a small airfield at the former RAF Elvington, which is home to the Yorkshire Air Museum and used for private planes.

Education

See also: List of schools in York

York has many places to learn and explore history. You can visit York Castle, which includes the York Castle Museum, along with other interesting spots like the Yorkshire Museum, Jorvik Viking Centre, and York Art Gallery. The National Railway Museum nearby shows famous trains, including the fast steam locomotive Mallard and the popular Flying Scotsman.

The city has many schools. The University of York is located on the southern edge of the city, and York St John University is in the centre. There are also colleges like York College and Askham Bryan College offering many different courses. The city has over 70 schools for younger students, including primary schools for ages 5 to 11 and secondary schools for ages 11 to 16. There are also special schools like All Saints School, a Roman Catholic school, and private schools such as St Peter's School, which has a very long history.

Culture

See also: Roses rivalry

York is known for its arts and culture. It is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a city of Media Arts. The city has a rich history in theatre. The Theatre Royal, established in 1744, puts on an annual pantomime that draws audiences from all over. Other theatres like the Grand Opera House and Joseph Rowntree Theatre also show many shows. The city also has the Riding Lights Theatre Company, which works with young people and schools.

York is famous for its York Mystery Plays. These plays tell stories from history and are performed in public every few years. They were first performed in medieval times and have been brought back many times since.

Music is also important in York. Groups like the Academy of St Olave's and the National Centre for Early Music give concerts in the city. Universities also have students and staff who perform music.

Each September, York holds a Festival of Food and Drink to celebrate local food and drink. There is also an annual event called the Assize of Ale where people dress in old costumes and visit pubs to raise money for charity. The city is also known for York ham, a special type of mild-flavoured ham.

Attractions

Architecture

See also: York sites of interest and Medieval parish churches of York

See also: Listed buildings in York (within the city walls, northern part)

York Minster, a large and beautiful Gothic cathedral, is a main attraction in the city.

York’s center is surrounded by the city's medieval walls, which are very popular for walking. These walls are some of the best-preserved in England. They have special gateways and include parts from Roman, Norman, and medieval times, as well as newer repairs.

The walls go around about 2.5 miles (4 km) and cover an area of 263 acres (106 ha). One part of the city doesn’t have walls because a lake, called the King’s Fishpond, served as a defense. This lake was created by damming the River Foss. Central York has special narrow paths called Snickelways, many leading to old market places like Pavement and St Sampson's Square. The Shambles is a narrow medieval street with shops and cafés. Its name comes from an old word for a meat market, and you can still see old hooks and shelves outside some shops. The street also has a shrine for Margaret Clitherow, though not in her old home. Goodramgate has many old houses, including Lady Row, built in the 1300s.

The southern entrance to York, Micklegate Bar, is a building from the 1100s to 1300s.

The Shambles is a medieval shopping street; most buildings are from around 1350 to 1475.

The Art Deco style Odeon Cinema is on Blossom Street.

The 1960s Brutalist-style Stonebow House is also there.

Pubs

In July 2017, York listed 107 pubs in the city center, some of which are very old. These include the Golden Fleece, Ye Olde Starre Inne, famous for its sign that has been there since 1733, and The Kings Arms, often seen during floods. In June 2016, a count found 328 different kinds of real ale in over 200 pubs in York, showing the city is a great place for beer lovers.

Tea Rooms

In central York, in St Helen's Square, you can find the York branch of Bettys Café Tea Rooms. The founder, Frederick Belmont, was inspired by a grand ship called the Queen Mary in 1936. He used its designers to turn an old store into a lovely café. During war times, the café’s basement was a favorite spot for airmen, and a special mirror with their signatures is still displayed today.

Media

York has several local newspapers and radio stations. One newspaper is called The Press, and there are four local radio stations: BBC Radio York, YorkMix Radio, YO1 Radio, and Jorvik Radio. Local television news comes from BBC Yorkshire and BBC North East and Cumbria, as well as ITV Yorkshire and ITV Tyne Tees.

York St John University has a department for film and television, and the University of York runs its own television station called York Student Television and two newspapers, Nouse and York Vision. The university's radio station, URY, is one of the oldest student radio stations in the UK.

Sport

Football

York City's football team plays in the National League. They are known for surprising bigger teams in cup games, like beating Manchester United 3–0 in 1995–96. Their home games are at York Community Stadium.

Rugby

Rugby has been played in York since the 1860s. York RUFC and other teams play at Clifton Park. There are also rugby league teams, with York RLFC's men's team playing in the Super League.

Field hockey

York has several field hockey clubs that compete in local leagues.

Racing

York Racecourse, established in 1731, hosts many horse races each year, including the Ebor Festival. It also hosted a stage of the Tour de France in 2014 and the Tour de Yorkshire in 2015.

Other

York City Rowing Club is located under Lendal Bridge, and there are sailing clubs near York. The city also hosts the UK Snooker Championship at the York Barbican.

Garrison

York Garrison is a base for the British army, with several important units located in and around the city of York. These units include troops and headquarters that help keep the army organized and ready for their duties.

International relations

Twin towns and sister cities

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in the United Kingdom

York has special friendships with cities around the world. It is linked with Dijon in France since 1953, Münster in Germany since 1957, and Nanjing in China since 2016. These friendships help the cities work together in areas like travel, learning, science, technology, and culture.

In 2014, York made a unique connection with Jórvík, the ancient Viking city that once stood where York now stands. In 2017, York became the United Kingdom’s first human rights city, promising to use human rights in all its decisions.

Freedom of the City

The following people and military units have received the Freedom of the City of York.

Individuals

• John Kendal: 1482.
• John Moore: 29 September 1687.
• Cosmo Gordon Lang: 1928.
• Mary, Princess Royal and Countess of Harewood: 1952.
• Edna Annie Crichton: 1955.
• Prince Andrew, Duke of York (later Andrew Mountbatten-Windsor): 23 February 1987 (revoked by a unanimous vote of the City of York Council on 27 April 2022).
• Sarah, Duchess of York (later Sarah Ferguson): 23 February 1987. (revoked by a unanimous vote of the City of York Council on 26 March 2026).
• Katharine, Duchess of Kent: April 1989.
• John Barry: 2002.
• Dame Judi Dench: 13 July 2002.
• Berwick Kaler: 2003.
• Professor Sir Ronald Cooke: 2006.
• Neal Guppy: 2010.

Military units

• The Royal Dragoon Guards: 24 April 1999.
• 2 Signals Regiment: January 2001.
• A Squadron The Queen's Own Yeomanry: 3 December 2009.
• RAF Linton on Ouse: 19 September 2010.
• The Queen's Gurkha Signals: 8 September 2015.

Notable people

Main article: List of people from York

York has been home to many famous people throughout history. Some of these individuals have made important contributions in fields like arts, science, and sports. The city continues to inspire and welcome new generations of achievers.